GAUMUKH TAPOVAN

4500 Meters | Uttarakhand

DIFFICULTY

Moderate/Pro

DURATION

13 Days

COST

₹78000

overview

The UT Ladakh Kangri peak, located in the upper valley of Rumtse village, is a prominent snow-covered peak that was recently explored and successfully climbed by local mountaineers from the Ladakh Mountain Guides Association in 2019. UT kangri is the best for those who are new to mountaineering and planning to do a six-thousander at the beginning.

Although the trail to the top of UT Kangri is beautiful, it is also challenging and requires prior experience in high-altitude trekking. The summit day is the longest and most exhausting day of the expedition, lasting around 10-11 hours. Climbers will be roped up in a team and will need to climb steep slopes in deep snow conditions. However, reaching the top of UT Kangri is rewarding as it offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Himalayan ranges such as the Karakoram, Zanskar, and Stok ranges that will be etched in the climbers’ memories forever.

We have modified the usual itinerary in order to turn it into a rigorous winter training program. This will help the climber learn the skills and techniques of mountaineering in the best way possible. You will learn the use of Ice Axe and Crampons. You will alos undertake the skill training that includes Anchoring, Rappelling, Use of Ice Pitons, Fixed Ropes, Jumaring, Crevasse Crossing and more.

ITINERARY

Day 1: Arrival in Leh (3,500m)

  • Land at Leh Airport and transfer to hotel.
  • Full-day rest for high altitude acclimatization.
  • Evening: Short walk to Leh Market.
  • Overnight at hotel.

Day 2: Rock Climbing & Rappelling – Shey Palace

  • Post-breakfast: Drive to Shey Palace.
  • Practice basic rock climbing and rappelling techniques.
  • Return to hotel by afternoon.
  • Overnight at hotel.

Day 3: Drive to Rumtse Phu – Acclimatization Hike

  • Drive (2–3 hrs) to Rumtse Phu (4600m).
  • Set up camp near the road head.
  • Evening acclimatization hike to Advocate Peak (named by B&C).
  • Overnight in tents.

Day 4: Trek to Intermediate Base Camp (4,900m)

  • After breakfast, short trek to Intermediate Base Camp.
  • Introduction to mountaineering equipment.
  • Evening: Acclimatization hike.
  • Overnight at camp.

Day 5: Trek to UT Kangri Base Camp (5,100m)

  • Move to Base Camp.
  • Light training, rest, and gear check.
  • Overnight in tents.

Day 6: Training Day – Ice & Snow Craft (Part 1)

  • Focus: Foundation of technical mountaineering.
  • Topics Covered:
    • Equipment intro (ice axe, crampons, helmets)
    • Ascending/Descending ice slopes
    • Anchoring, belaying, rappelling
    • Use of ice pitons and fixed ropes
    • Jumaring, crevasse crossing & rescue
    • Avalanche awareness, glacier navigation

Day 7: Training Day – Ice & Snow Craft (Part 2)

  • Practical revision of techniques learned.
  • Team & solo drills in expedition-style movements.
  • Real terrain simulations.

Day 8: Training Day – Advanced Ice Terrain Practice

  • Focus: Glacier walks, crevasse rescue, rope team techniques.
  • Simulate conditions found on 6000m+ climbs.
  • Final briefing for summit attempt.

Day 9: Rest & Summit Prep

  • Full rest day.
  • Early dinner and sleep early for midnight summit push.

Day 10: Summit UT Kangri (6,070m)

  • Start summit attempt at midnight.
  • Alpine-style climb to the summit.
  • Enjoy panoramic views of Stok Kangri, Kang Yatse, and the Changthang Range.
  • Return to Base Camp by evening.

Day 11: Return to Leh

  • Descend to roadhead.
  • Drive back to Leh.
  • Check-in at hotel and rest.

Day 12: Buffer Day

  • Reserved for weather delays or acclimatization issues.

Day 13: Departure

  • After breakfast, transfer to Leh Airport.
  • Fly back with experience, knowledge & stories.

What Makes This Expedition Special

  • 6000m technical peak (non-trekking summit)
  • Real-world training in ice & snow craft
  • Combines expedition & mountaineering learning
  • Great prep for future peaks: Mentok Kangri, CB13, Stok Kangri, Island Peak

INCLUSIONS

  • 3 nights in a hotel (2 nights before the climb and 1 after that)
  • Airport pickup and drop
  • Breakfast, lunch and dinner on all days
  • Tea every Morning & Evening
  • Highly qualified Guides during the trek
  • Camping in tents along with sleeping bags
  • First aid medical kit
  • Local Transport
  • All the necessary technical equipment
  • All fees & Permits required for the expedition
  • Participants will get an exclusive discount on all Fast&Up products.

EXCLUSIONS

  • Travel till Leh
  • Personal clothing & Personal Porter
  • Any kind of personal expenses
  • Toiletries
  • Tips to guide/porter
  • Anything not mentioned in inclusions of the package.
  • Personal Insurance

PREPARATION GUIDE

  • Have Previous High altitude Trekking/Mountaineering Experience.
  • Weight train the body. Walk uphill or stairs steps with a weighted back pack.
  • Strength training for the lower body and core. Do planks, crunches and cycling.
  • Climbing UT Kangri requires a fit body and a conscious mind. One needs to be exercising regularly for the past couple of months.
  • Any high altitude trek requires you to build a good amount of cardiovascular endurance. Jogging is the best exercise to increase your stamina.
  • You need strong legs to success fully finish a high altitude trek. Squats are the best way to build leg strength quickly. Especially your thighs, glutes and knees.
  • For detailed advice and coordination, we’ll have a WhatsApp group.

THINGS TO PACK

For Your Head:

  • Woolen warm cap to protect against cold winds
  • Balaclava for extra warmth
  • Bandana (can be used as a sweatband or to cover your face from dust)

For Your Feet:

  • 4-5 pairs of regular socks
  • 1-2 pair of thick woolen socks for warmth
  • Trekking boots with ankle support and good grip
  • Extra pair of comfortable sneakers or shoes to wear at the Tea House

For Your Hands:

  • 1-2 pairs of warm inner gloves
  • 1 pair of waterproof gloves to keep your hands dry
  • Hand warmers (optional, but useful in very cold weather)
  • A pair of fleece gloves for extra insulation

Clothing: The Armor of the Adventurer:

  • 1 pair of thermal innerwear (top and bottom) for base warmth
  • 2 pairs of lightweight, quick-dry trekking pants
  • 1 pair of windproof and waterproof Gore-Tex trousers
  • 1 Gore-Tex or waterproof jacket for wind and rain protection
  • 1 poncho (optional) for sudden rain
  • 1-2 fleece jacket for light warmth
  • 3–4 full-sleeve dry-fit T-shirts for layering
  • 1 heavy down or padded jacket (800-900 Fills) for extreme cold

Navigational & Survival Gear:

  • 20-30L Backpack (for water, snacks, fleece, etc.)
  • Duffel bag (provided by us; carried by mules/porters)
  • 1 trekking pole (or 2 for better balance)
  • Filter water bottle (2 bottles of 1 Ltrs)
  • Thermos flask (for warm water or tea)

Personal Care Compact:

  • Toothbrush & toothpaste
  • Face towel, tissues & wet wipes
  • Hand sanitizer & lip balm
  • Moisturizer (optional but helpful in dry climate)
  • Personal medication kit
  • Sunscreen (SPF 50+)

Illumination & Eye Protection:

  • Headlamp with extra batteries – a must-have for night treks and early morning starts
  • Sunglasses – Polarized, Category 4 with 100% UV protection and a wrap-around fit to guard your eyes from harsh sun glare and snowy reflections. Carry a backup pair just in case.

Soul Nourishment:

  • Camera – capture the beauty and magic of the mountains
  • Music player or earphones – enjoy peaceful moments with your favorite tunes
  • Books or playing cards – perfect for downtime and relaxing at camp